The Upper West Side has always marched to the beat of its own drum. Unlike the high-gloss glamour of the Upper East Side or the Downtown frenzy of lower Manhattan,...
The Upper West Side has always marched to the beat of its own drum. Unlike the high-gloss glamour of the Upper East Side or the Downtown frenzy of lower Manhattan, this stretch between Central Park and the Hudson River moves at a pace that feels distinctly—deliberately—neighborly.
It’s a place where brownstones are lined with dog-walkers and stroller-pushing parents, where pre-war apartment buildings house artists and academics, and where a certain kind of old-school New Yorker still clings to their rent-controlled one-bedroom with a near-religious devotion. Change comes slowly here, if at all. While Downtown restaurants cycle through trends at breakneck speed, the Upper West Side has remained home to institutions that have fed generations—Café Luxembourg, with its Parisian glow, still humming since 1983; Barney Greengrass, where sturgeon has reigned supreme since 1908; and The Leopard at des Artistes, where the walls whisper stories of a bygone New York through Howard Chandler Christy’s ethereal murals.
In a city that often seems to reinvent itself overnight, the Upper West Side stands as a reminder that some things—especially a perfect pastrami sandwich or a well-shaken martini—are best left exactly as they are. Here, find Vogue’s guide to the best restaurants on the Upper West Side.
Cafe Luxembourg
The Upper West Side may be in a constant state of flux—cozy bookstores giving way to condos, beloved bakeries replaced by bank branches—but Café Luxembourg has remained an unshakable pillar of the neighborhood since 1983. This Paris-by-way-of-Broadway boîte first opened under the direction of Keith McNally and Lynn Wagenknecht (the duo behind The Odeon), and in the decades since, it has perfected the art of being a New York classic: not too stuffy, not too trendy, just perfectly poised. Its soft-glow lighting, red leather banquettes, and brass fixtures feel untouched by time—though the menu, a greatest hits of French-American comfort (think: frisée aux lardons, moules frites, and a burger that rivals its downtown counterpart at Balthazar), remains as sharp as ever. If the Upper West Side has a main character, Café Luxembourg is surely it.
Tatiana by Kwame Onwuachi
Lincoln Center has long been a beacon of high culture, a place where tuxedoed patrons sip Champagne before an evening of Verdi or Balanchine. But with the arrival of Tatiana by Kwame Onwuachi, the institution has been infused with something new: a bold, electrifying celebration of New York’s diasporic soul. Opened in late 2022, the restaurant is a deeply personal project from Onwuachi, who first made waves on Top Chef before cementing himself as one of America’s most exciting culinary talents. Named after his sister, Tatiana is a love letter to his Bronx childhood, to the flavors of the Caribbean and West Africa, and to the very essence of what makes New York, New York.
The menu reads like a mixtape of cultures and cuisines: egusi dumplings swirled in a deeply spiced tomato broth, truffle-laced chopped cheese sliders, braised oxtail that falls apart at the mere suggestion of a fork. Even the seafood—like the signature crab dumplings—feels like a nod to a city built on reinvention. The space itself is just as vibrant, with warm wood tones, soft lighting, and a soundtrack that hums with the energy of hip-hop, jazz, and Afrobeats. It’s not just a restaurant; it’s a cultural moment. The Upper West Side has never quite seen a dining destination like this—one that honors the past while redefining the future. And judging by the impossible-to-get reservations, New Yorkers are ready for it.
Barney Greengrass
The Sturgeon King reigns supreme. Since 1908, Barney Greengrass has been a shrine to a holy trinity of Jewish appetizing: smoked fish, bagels, and black-and-white cookies, all served with a no-nonsense charm that has somehow survived the city’s shifting tides. Opened in Harlem before migrating downtown in 1929, the deli retains its throwback charm—worn Formica tables, waiters who have worked there for decades, and an aversion to credit cards that feels positively quaint in the era of Apple Pay. Even the wallpaper, a whimsical French Quarter motif, seems to exist outside of time. It’s the kind of place where you’ll find an Upper West Side octogenarian reading the Times beside a Hollywood A-lister who made the crosstown schlep for a bagel piled with sable. The only constant in New York is change—but at Barney Greengrass, it’s resisted at every delicious turn. (For more, read The New Yorker editor-in-chief David Remnick’s ode to Barney Greengrass in Bon Appétit back in 2019.)
The Leopard at des Artistes
A meal at The Leopard at des Artistes is as much about art as it is about food. Housed inside the historic Hotel des Artistes—a prewar haven for painters, musicians, and writers—the restaurant carries the legacy of its predecessor, Café des Artistes, a power-lunch hideaway for Manhattan’s cultural set. Today, The Leopard preserves that old-world glamour, its walls still covered in Howard Chandler Christy’s mythic murals of frolicking nymphs (their once nicotine-stained hues now restored to their original brilliance). While the setting evokes the past, the menu is firmly rooted in Southern Italy, with plates like slow-braised heritage pork ragù and eggplant timballo that feel lifted from a long, wine-fueled lunch on the Amalfi Coast. The city has lost many of its grand dining rooms to time, but The Leopard remains, proof that some institutions don’t just endure—they evolve.
Lincoln Ristorante
Modernist in both design and culinary approach, Lincoln Ristorante sits at the edge of Lincoln Center like a sleek glass jewel box, offering one of the most striking dining rooms in the city. Floor-to-ceiling windows wrap around the space, offering diners a front-row seat to the spectacle of Josie Robertson Plaza—ballerinas dashing across the courtyard, music lovers in black tie gathering before a show, the energy of the Upper West Side at its most rarefied. Inside, the food is equally polished. The kitchen, helmed by Chef Artem Orlovskyy, takes a refined approach to Italian cuisine, focusing on pristine ingredients and expert technique. Handmade pasta is a highlight—silky ribbons of pappardelle tossed with rich lamb ragù, delicate agnolotti filled with seasonal purées, tagliatelle with white truffle in the colder months. Seafood is also a standout, particularly the crudo selection, which showcases impeccably fresh fish with just the right touch of olive oil and citrus. It’s Italian dining at its most elegant—an experience that feels in perfect harmony with the artistic grandeur of its Lincoln Center surroundings.
Zabar’s
The Jewish appetizing temple that is Zabar’s needs no introduction. But beyond the crowded aisles of its Amsterdam Avenue mothership—where smoked salmon is sliced with the precision of a neurosurgeon and the cheese selection could rival a European market—there’s the humble, no-frills Zabar’s Café. This is where you’ll find the regulars, those who have been sipping coffee and nibbling on bagels for decades, undeterred by the laminated trays and self-service setup. The food is simple but unimpeachable: thick, well-toasted bagels slathered with cream cheese, flaky rugelach still warm from the oven, and, of course, perfectly brewed coffee. It’s the antithesis of the sleek, Instagrammable cafés of downtown—a spot where nostalgia isn’t manufactured, but simply exists.
Café Fiorello
If Lincoln Center is the Upper West Side’s grand stage, then Café Fiorello is its unofficial green room. For over 40 years, this Italian institution has been a pre-theater power player, a post-performance refuge, and an all-day affair where the dining room hums with an energy that’s equal parts old New York and modern Manhattan. The appeal? Towering platters of antipasti—briny marinated artichokes, plump olives, tangy pickled peppers—all arranged in a dazzling spread that tempts even the most decisive diner into over-ordering. There’s also Fiorello’s signature thin-crust pizza, charred just enough at the edges, and a pasta selection that reads like an ode to Roman trattorias. While the restaurant has a certain throwback charm—red banquettes, white tablecloths, tuxedoed waiters—it never feels outdated. Instead, it remains a timeless classic, the kind of place where you might spot a Broadway legend reviewing their script over linguine alle vongole or a table of old friends stretching their post-opera meal deep into the night.
Salumeria Rosi
With only a handful of tables and a menu that reads more like an ode to Italy than a standard restaurant lineup, Salumeria Rosi is as close as you’ll get to a hidden gem in a neighborhood where most spots are well-trodden institutions. The brainchild of Tuscan chef Cesare Casella, this sliver of a restaurant offers a transportive experience, where platters of prosciutto and speck arrive on wooden boards, and a glass of Barolo feels like a prerequisite. The beauty of Salumeria Rosi lies in its simplicity: bite-sized supplì oozing with mozzarella, truffled mushroom polenta, and burrata so creamy it practically melts on the plate. The atmosphere is intimate and candlelit, a reminder that the best meals often don’t require spectacle—just quality ingredients, a great glass of wine, and a table small enough to feel like it’s just you and the food.
Nice Matin
There’s something undeniably cinematic about Nice Matin—the kind of restaurant where you can imagine a screenwriter nursing an espresso on the sun-drenched terrace while mulling over the next great New York film. A stalwart on 79th and Amsterdam, this Provençal-inflected bistro is beloved for its effortless French charm: the wicker bistro chairs, the chalkboard specials, the waiters who deliver your frites with just the right amount of Parisian indifference. While the menu has plenty of Gallic classics—steak au poivre, escargots swimming in garlic butter—it’s also a great spot for a burger—this is the spot that first gave us the unapologetically messy “5 Napkin Burger” after all. Whether you’re stopping by for a post-theater meal or a leisurely weekend brunch, Nice Matin is one of those places that feels like it’s always been there—and hopefully, always will be.
Dagon
Broadway and 91st Street isn’t exactly the city’s culinary frontier, but Dagon has made the stretch one of the most exciting dining destinations on the Upper West Side. A rare gem in a neighborhood known for its nostalgia, this modern Middle Eastern eatery brings bold flavors and a sunny disposition to an area that can sometimes feel, well, a bit beige. Chef Ari Bokovza pulls inspiration from the Levant, with dishes like impossibly fluffy Yemenite kubaneh bread (served with whipped feta and a harissa-spiked tomato sauce), charcoal-grilled octopus with green zhug, and sumac-brined rotisserie chicken that falls off the bone. The space is bright and airy, punctuated by colorful tiles and a circular bar that invites lingering. It’s a refreshing alternative to the cozy-but-dim brasseries that dominate the area—a place where vibrant flavors and design work in tandem to shake up the Upper West Side’s status quo.
The Milling Room
Some restaurants grab you with their food; others with their ambiance. The Milling Room, nestled inside a cavernous, skylit space that once housed the grand Endicott Hotel, does both. The room itself is breathtaking—a soaring, glass-paneled atrium that feels at once expansive and intimate. It’s the kind of space that makes every meal feel like an occasion. But what sets The Milling Room apart is its commitment to seasonality, with a menu that showcases locally sourced ingredients in refined but unfussy ways. A plate of Hudson Valley duck might arrive paired with roasted sunchokes and cherry gastrique, while a bowl of house-made pasta gets the perfect hit of acidity from preserved lemon. It’s contemporary American fare done right—elegant, thoughtful, and deeply satisfying.